Every spring, tulips are a staple in our home, brightening up our rooms with their vibrant colors. While not actually native to Holland, most of these blooms are imported from the Netherlands, having made their way across 6000 miles via refrigerated cargo before stocking the floral sections of Costco and Trader Joe’s in the United States. Having a long appreciation for ornamental bulbs, I was happy to have the opportunity to visit Keukenhof during my spring break trip to the Netherlands.
Keukenhof is a large botanical garden complex situated on what was once the hunting grounds and kitchen garden of the 15th century castle, Slot Teylingen. Since 1949, flower growers and exporters have showcased their spring bulbs on these grounds. Today, it is a world-famous attraction and has been called the ‘Garden of Europe.’ From mid-March to early May, the grounds are open to the public, celebrating the blooming season of famed Dutch flowers, especially tulips, which grow in abundance in the cool, damp climate of Holland.
To get to Keukenhof, I headed out from Den Haag and took a sprinter train to Leiden. After a two minute stop to grab a Dunkin donut and a small americano, I boarded the special bus to Keukenhof. My combi-pass included admission to the gardens and transportation from Leiden, which made the trek pretty easy. On the 27-minute drive to Lisse, I finished my coffee and watched the scenery change from city to more agricultural, with sheep and cows in green pastures. The morning was mostly cloudy, but the sun broke once or twice revealing a blue sky, which looked idyllic with the green of the fields. These breaks though were short lived, and while the sun disappeared behind the grey could cover, the landscape changed once again as we entered the tulip growing areas. We drove past fields of blooming flowers in all different colors; I especially loved the bright pinks and fiery reds.
Soon enough, we arrived at Keukenhof. At 10:30 am, the place was already quite busy, with families and tour groups arriving in droves to see the last couple weeks of the growing season. Fortunately with the pass, this too was easy to navigate. I finished my breakfast and after a quick stop to grab a map, I headed in.
The gardens were bustling. There was a Draaiorgel, a Dutch automaton music box on wheels playing, the music reminiscent of fantasyland at Disneyland. The flowers, provided by 100 flower-growing corporations were in full bloom. Every year, over seven million bulbs are planted, and these are exhibited in the beautiful arrangements across the gardens. I saw tulips taller than I have ever seen in the United States, along with fancy varieties from fringed tulips to wispy fairy tulips in almost every color imaginable. Also in bloom were daffodils with their delicate yellows, whites, and pinks, along with sweet-smelling hyacinths and ocean blue muscari. I wandered around for a while, enjoying the flowers, stopping often to take many photos.
After about 2.5 miles of meandering along the flower-lined paths, I started feeling a bit peckish. Like Disneyland, there were a number of spots to buy food. I opted for some frites with mayo, my favorite on the go snack while in Europe. After that light lunch, I trekked back to look at souvenirs for family members. Sami and Grammy both love tulips, so I checked out bulbs for purchase. I probably went a little overboard with my order, but all things considered, it wasn’t a bad price for the package. More on that below.
After about three hours and over four miles of walking, including to the greenhouse where workers cleared out wilting buds and prepped the soil, I figured it was time to head out. The weather was beginning to turn, and a few drops started falling from the sky. I headed back to catch the bus back to Leiden Centraal. This time, the bus was standing room only, but it was still worth it. The drive back was only about 25 minutes, and we were back in Leiden. I caught the train back to Den Haag Lan van NOI, figuring I’d walk the kilometer back to the house and get in a few extra steps. The rain held off- that is, until I exited the train station- and I found that I left my umbrella in my backpack, forgetting to put it back in my purse after our return from Paris. At least I had worn a raincoat. Thus I returned with sopping hair and a story to tell when Jan greeted me at the door. But the grey of the morning could not dampen the brightness of the experience, literally or figuratively.
Some things to consider:
This year’s blooming season runs from March 20 through May 11, 2025, with the peak time to visit being at time of writing- April. These are the last couple weeks to see this year’s flowers. Check the Keukenhof website for available tickets. If you can’t visit this year, the flowers will be in bloom again next year. I definitely recommend a visit to Keukenhof if you happen to be in the vicinity of Holland between mid-March and early May. It really does make for a beautiful spring trip.
I mentioned ordering tulip bulbs for my mother-in-law and daughter. The reason for this is that while there are bulbs available for take-home purchase, transport to the United States and Canada requires some special considerations. Many of the tulip bulbs were contained in soil, which cannot be brought into the US. There was a small selection of dahlia and amaryllis bulbs that had the certificates necessary for entry into the US and Canada, but my people love tulips specifically. Thus I had to order the bulbs. I selected varieties that would be harder to find in the US, so I did pay a bit more, but for 60 bulbs, the prices weren’t more than what I could get at a specialty nursery back home.
I *briefly* debated with myself as to whether I could just take bulbs that didn’t have the proper certificates. I decided that the possible penalties were not worth the risk. Especially living in California, a very agricultural state, I’d probably get caught by Customs and Border Patrol. Not to mention the potential environmental impacts to our various ecosystems in California or the hefty fines that can come as a result. I didn’t want to risk our state’s biodiversity. Or a $1000 fine for a first-time offense. Just don’t do it.
I recommend a good chunk of time- at least two to three hours- to get around and really enjoy the gardens. The park itself was bigger than I had expected and there was much to see. There are also a number of kids activities and a kids play area. The frites cart, along with other food and drink carts, were near the playground and there were many kids playing while their adults hung around with lunches and beers. There was something leisurely about the scene, and while it was definitely very busy, it was not overwhelming. I suppose it was because we didn’t need to be in a rush.
Lastly, be sure to be weather ready. The weather in the Netherlands can be changeful, and it can get cool or rainy relatively quickly. I recommend layers and an umbrella or water resistant jacket.
Keukenhof was absolutely beautiful, and I thought it lived up to its reputation. While it was busy, it was still pleasant to walk around the flowers and enjoy what nature and Dutch growers have cultivated. I can see why it is a treasure. I hope to return next year, this time bringing the girls to experience the beauty of Holland in the spring. Because life is an adventure meant to be shared.
For visitor information and to purchase tickets, check out Keukenhof.nl.
If you are interested in purchasing bulbs but can’t get over to Keukenhof, you may order online at Tulipstore or QBFGardening. Please note that these are pre-order and that bulbs will be shipped in September for planting in October.
Of course, there was more Miffy. There was a gift hut with cute Miffy items and a Miffy photo op complete with clogs.
References:
“About Keukenhof.” Keukenhof, 24 July 2023, keukenhof.nl/en/about-keukenhof/.
“Bringing Agricultural Products into the United States.” U.S. Customs and Border Protection, http://www.cbp.gov/travel/clearing-cbp/bringing-agricultural-products-united-states. Accessed 24 Apr. 2025.
The Cranky Camper 