Mammoth Adventures: Hot Springs and Brunches

Great California Road Trips: U.S. 395, Part 4

In honor of 175 years of California statehood, I bring you our last weekend trip before the start of the new school year. A true California adventure, we headed north on U.S. 395 to Silver Lake Campground, just west of June Lake in the Inyo National Forest, for a weekend of fun and relaxation in mid-August.

We left at lunchtime for the six-hour drive up, stopping at Panda Express before hitting the road in an attempt to avoid the usual Friday traffic. We took only one other stop on our way up for a Starbucks in Mojave. From there, it was a smooth drive north on CA-14 and U.S. 395.

The slow summer dusk was starting to fall when I finally turned onto CA-158. We passed the familiar shores of June Lake and continued west. After about 6 miles, we spotted the glistening waters of Silver Lake and turned off the road and into the large campground adjacent to the lake. We promptly set up camp before starting on dinner. As I cooked up a pot of pasta primavera, I enjoyed the views around me. The scenic Sierra Nevada Mountains never disappoint.

After dinner, we started a nice little campfire and enjoyed the nature and fresh air, munching on Albert Heijn stroopwafels before getting ready for bed. I took advantage of the bathrooms to wash my face and brush my teeth. We turned in and woke up after the sunrise, with big plans for Saturday: hiking and exploring the geothermally active Long Valley Caldera and its many hot springs.

After a light breakfast, we first drove to Hilltop Hot Springs. I had visited this particular springs before, on a summer evening back in 2022. This time, we arrived on a bright August Saturday. I was a little worried that the small, temperature-controlled tub would be full arriving so late in the morning, but we were pleasantly surprised. There were only two other cars in the lot off Benton Crossing, so we figured there would be room for us in the tub. We followed the short trail to the pool. As we arrived, a party of three was just leaving, so we ended up having the pool to ourselves for the duration of our soak.

The hot water was, as always, very relaxing. The sun was bright, but the day was not too hot, and the area around Little Alkali Lake was quiet and peaceful. I enjoyed the feel of the warm water on my back while taking in the scenic vistas of Long Valley. After soaking by ourselves for about a half-hour or so, I was beginning to raisin. As we were getting out, two guys were heading over to soak. They shared that they were making their way around the area, visiting the different springs. This sounded like a great idea, and since it was still a bit early for lunch, we decided to drive just over a mile along Benton Crossing Road to Wild Willy’s Hot Springs.

As mentioned in a prior post, the Long Valley Caldera is known for its geothermal activity. While this volcanic field has not seen an eruption in an estimated 100000 years, according to the U.S. Geological Survey, the threat potential presented by this caldera is very high. While it remains to be seen whether this volcanic area will erupt in our lifetime (the threat is likely low), this supervolcano located within close proximity to towns and tourist attractions is something that geologists monitor. One benefit, however, is that there are a number of hot springs in which to ‘take the waters.’

Wild WIlly’s Hot Springs are bigger than Hilltop and probably more well-known. There were a number of cars in the parking area when we arrived, and there were families with their coolers and pets walking along the boardwalk trail (and off of it) to get to the springs. It is an easy quarter-mile hike to the pools, and even early in the day, we could see that the area is popular for hot spring enthusiasts and partygoers alike. The springs are located amidst pasturelands, so we walked by the cows roaming in the vicinity. The connected pools were the more popular area; fortunately for us, there was a nice, large pool that was being used by a lone couple. We headed to soak in the quieter tub, and ended up striking a conversation with the pair. It was really a nice time, and very relaxed. We have been fortunate to meet really nice people on our travels.

Though time flies when you’re having fun, after about another half-hour or so, we were starting to get hungry and very thirsty. That would be our cue to get out and rustle up some brunch. We said good-bye, took a few photos, and dried off. At that point, there was a fairly large group heading to the pool, so it was a good time to leave anyway. We followed the boardwalk back up to the car, observing a couple people getting really close to the cows for selfies. Fortunately, the cows seemed pretty chill, but it still seemed like a bad idea to me.

From Wild Willy’s we tracked back north on 395 and headed to Mammoth for brunch. We opted for the popular Breakfast Club on Main Street, and we had no regrets. The homestyle breakfast spot was very cozy, and the good was great. The Spanish omelette was huge and did not disappoint. I also had to get a bear claw, one of their specialties, and this made a nice dessert for after our hike later in the day. The server was super friendly, and he kept the coffee coming, which was caffeinated goodness. We also met a couple who shared memories of Scouting in years past. Meeting nice people was definitely a theme on this trip.

After paying the check, we backtracked to the visitor center to get more information for our next activity: Devils Postpile National Monument. But that will be the topic of my next post.

Some things to consider:

There are many hot springs in the Long Valley Caldera and in the Eastern Sierras. I just mentioned two literal hot spots. Before heading out, check the location and any restrictions to visitation.

Please stay on designated trails. While most people were respectful of the signage and followed the ruled, we saw a number of people at Wild Willy’s that were going off the boardwalk trail.

A nice long soak can be super relaxing, but be aware of potential dangers associated with the thermophilic protozoan, Naegleria fowleri, also known as brain eating amoeba. The risk of infection is very small, but infection is almost always fatal. The amoeba enters the body through the nose, so keeping your head above water will minimize the risk of infection.

Please be sure to pack in and pack out. Wild Willy’s has a portable toilet and a dumpster, but Hilltop does not. Please keep these places clean for the enjoyment of everyone.

There is so much to see along U.S. 395. With expansive views, miles of hiking trails, relaxing hot springs, and yummy food spots, the possibilities for fun and adventure are limitless. Just pick a happy trail and go! Cheers!

*On September 9, 1850, California was admitted into the union, becoming the 31st state. Here’s to 175 years of statehood, and to the many beautiful places California has to explore!