Grover Hot Springs State Park

Ebbetts Pass Scenic Byway connects two unique California State Parks. At the western end, Calaveras Big Trees State Park protects over 1100 of the world’s largest living organisms: giant sequoias. Traversing the mighty Sierra Nevada Mountains east , the scenic byway terminates in the town of Markleeville in Alpine County, and another state park: Grover Hot Springs State Park.

Grover Hot Springs State Park is located in the Hot Springs Valley in the Eastern Sierras at the western edge of what is known as the Great Basin Province. This area is characterized by both alpine meadow and pine forest ecosystems at an elevation of about 5900 feet. The state park itself is relatively small- only about 553 acres- but the park features a number of amenities. There is a campground with 76 campsites and a picnic area, along with several hikes through quiet meadows and forest. But the real draw to this state park in the tranquil Sierras is the swimming.

As implied in its name, the state park features both a cool swimming pool and a large soaking pool fed by water from six hot springs. The mineral-rich water is heated to about 147 degrees Fahrenheit (64 degrees Celsius) as a result of geothermal activity deep underground. The water is temperature controlled by the park; it is cooled to a much safer and more relaxing 102-104 degrees Fahrenheit. It is also sanitized using bromine, a halogen used to disinfect hot water pools as it is more stable than chlorine at warmer temperatures. The bromine interacts with dissolved minerals in the water, resulting in the yellow-green color of the hot pool.

Our trip to Grover Hot Springs State Park was our last major stop along the Ebbetts Pass Scenic Byway. We drove the 61-mile national scenic byway while on a weekend trip to Angels Camp at the beginning of August. After stopping at scenic vista points, alpine lakes, and taking a hike along PCT and Ebbetts Peak, we drove to the eastern end of California Route 4 as it terminated at California Route 89 just outside Markleeville. We continued onto CA-89 and headed north, following signs for Markleeville and Grover Hot Springs.

From the park entrance, we followed the signs for the swimming pools. We parked in the lot closest to the pools, which was also adjacent to the meadow interpretive trail. The kiosk was closed when we walked over to the pool area; the rangers were on their break. We walked around the area, exploring the bubbling springs and reading the informative signage explaining how the hot springs came to be. Tectonic activity between the continental North American plate and the heavier Pacific Plate, glaciation, and the movement of water formed the hot springs that tourists have enjoyed for over a century, and that the Washoe people have valued for many generations prior.

The rangers returned and we paid for our parking and swimming session. A few more minutes, as we were allowed into the pool area. Following the posted signage, we took a quick rinse in the showers, then headed to the warm pool.

We slipped into the relaxing mineral waters of the warm pool. I love a good hot spring, and while this one was a bit more controlled, it was still very pleasant. There were several families out enjoying the swim session, but it did not feel crowded. I imagine it was quieter being toward the end of summer, and later in the afternoon. The pools get very popular, even being a little off the beaten path. I sat languidly in the warm water until my fingers started to raisin.

We then headed to the cool pool for the real ‘spa treatment.’ We did a couple rounds of ‘hydrotherapy,’ going from the hot pool to the cooler pool. It is said that contrast hydrotherapy can improve circulation and reduce stiffness and inflammation. Whether this is true, I am not entirely sure. There is some evidence to suggest it can be helpful for certain conditions, but I am by no means making any health claims here. I will attest to it being nice on a warm day, and it was pretty fun.

Soon enough, though, it was time to think about heading out and back to Angels Camp. The day was whiling away, and we still had to drive back over Ebbetts Pass. One more leisurely soak in the hot pool, and it was time to rinse off, get changed, and head out. I felt very relaxed after a good soaking, and while the pool area itself wasn’t particularly scenic, the surrounding mountains and meadows are very pretty.

We packed back into the Subie and headed out of the park. The drive back to Arnold was lovely and uneventful. There were a few more vista points that we had missed, such as Hell’s Kitchen, but these would have to be explored next time we head back up this scenic drive. It was a beautiful drive, and a beautiful day, full of adventure and fun. And we ended the day with a bit of nostalgia: a low-key dinner at Pizza Factory, a favorite Sierra pizza chain that brought back memories of many a Scout outing gone by.

Some things to consider:

The pools at Grover Hot Springs are open Friday through Monday. Pool hours can be found on the California State Parks site. Be sure to check for any advisories before heading out.

At time of writing, cost of parking at the state park is $8. Pool entry is $10 for adults, $5 for children for a 90-minute session. I opine that these were nominal fees for a relaxing time soaking in clean pools.

Speaking of clean pools, a typical concern with hot springs and untreated warm pools is Naegleria fowleri, thermophilic protozoan known as ‘brain eating amoeba.’ The risk of infection is very small, but infection is almost always fatal. It is a potential danger in many natural hot springs, but as the water at Grover Hot Springs is managed and treated, N. fowleri has not been detected in these pools. I felt this made the experience more relaxed for me.

The pools are not shaded, so sun protection is a must. I applied sunscreen ahead of our soak, which was good because we had to shower prior to going into the pools. I was able to wear my hat and sunglasses, which also helped.

Many hot springs in the Eastern Sierras are ‘clothing-optional.‘ This one is defiantly not. Swimsuits are required. There are souvenir towels for purchase if you happen to forget. towel, or you want a useful souvenir from the trip. At time of writing, the jewel-toned towels are $15.

If swimming is not your jam, there is camping and several hiking trails in the state park. The trails range from easy and flat meadow hikes to a 16-mile trek to Hawkins Peak. While the state park is not large, there are several nice hikes for different levels according to AllTrails.

Cell service was spotty in some areas, including parts of the state park and along stretches of Ebbetts Pass. This was great, as I needed some time away from the stressors of my workplace. On the other hand, in case of emergency, lack of cell service can make it more difficult to alert for help.

The state park is open year-round. That said, weather conditions can vary along Ebbetts Pass and the Eastern Sierras, bringing some additional challenges- and gear- to make a safe trip. Be sure to check road conditions before heading out and bring essential supplies such as water, snacks, automotive supplies, and tire chains if needed.

I loved traversing the Sierras once again and exploring the amazing sights along the way. It was so fun to be able to visit Grover Hot Springs State Park even for a short while and take a relaxing dip in its warm waters. I hope to be able to return to this part of the Sierras and explore more. There is so much to see along the Ebbetts Pass Scenic Byway no matter what your recreational preference. And there are many adventures meant to be shared in this epic part of my beautiful home state. Cheers!

References:
Grover Hot Springs State Park. California State Parks. (2015). https://www.parks.ca.gov/pages/508/files/GroverHotSpringsSPWebLayout2015.pdf